May 05, 2021

The Malwala Palace

 The Malwala Palace was built way back in early to mid 1800s and was situated on the road leading towards east from Charminar, just about 200m from the famed monument. It was constructed in a mix of contemporary Mughal and carvings of ethnic Rajasthani style. It retained the brilliantly unique style of Hyderabadi architecture with an intricately carved wooden pavilion and was probably one of the only two or three such palaces in Hyderabad to feature such carvings. 

The palace was home to the Revenue dept under the Nizam of Hyderabad's rule and was titled 'Daftar-e-maal' in its initial days that led to its name. Raja Dharam Karan and Raja Shyam Karan were the prominent people to have made it their abode amongst the Mathurs who form a sizeable number in Hyderabad. They were inhabited close to the palace but have now spread across the city (and the world, I must say).

The Malwala Palace or the Shivraj Bahadur ki Devdi , as it was referred to locally, has a special place in my heart as it was my naani-ka-ghar and I spent quite some time there during my childhood. We stayed barely 5 minutes walk away from the place and so passed it regularly on our way. I have seen it in splendour but not in full glory. As per the many elders of our family, it was a sight to behold when it was being maintained and with all the Khandils and jhoomars lit up. 



It gave a striking appearance as you walked from the Charminar eastwards. The main arch gate (the only part that remains today) was majestic. It inspired awe as one passed by.


The inner courtyard was no less grand with a large dalaan with a fountain in the centre leading up to the elevated portal with intricately carved pillars.


While I have never seen the palace in glory, there is one photo that shows its real richness.


And this pic when the Late great film star Dilip Kumar Saab visited the family at the palace. 






A few more photos to show its beauty.




And this was the version I remember seeing.



Later it was being used as a community and wedding hall for functions of the Mathur community. Indeed, my parents did get married in the same palace.



Coming back to my naani-ka-ghar, my mom grew up in the part circled in the image below. The house itself was wonderfully beautiful. The roof was high with solid wooden beams supporting it and a flooring that was made of such beautifully intricate small sized ceramic tiles arranged in gorgeous patterns. And that windowed balcony is something I still remember fondly. The view of the Charminar one got when we peered out of those balconies was breathtaking. And the cycle-rickshaws that went about ferrying people and goods across town as one looked down onto the street below. Auto-rickshaws had just started finding a foothold in the old city but the manual versions ruled the roads.


And just out of the above frame to the bottom left was a small shop that rented out cycles for 50p an hour (in my time). We used to hire for a couple of hours and went around exploring the old city.

Alas, the palace was sold off to a local businessman/politician and is gone now after it was razed down behind closed doors and a case is still going on in the courts considering it was a designated heritage structure.

What is left of it today..

 
 



To end, sometime back, I found this wonderful sketch of the Malwala Palace in all its glory!



* All images googled. Copyright with their respective owners.